As you would probably expect, there are an infinite variety of threads used to create goldwork and metal thread embroidery pieces. Some are larger or thicker than others: some are twisted or crimped. In that respect it’s no different from any other craft like knitting and sewing. By using different sizes and shapes of thread, the craftsman/woman is able to create different textures and give each piece of embroidery its unique three-dimensional quality. There are innumerable threads to choose from, and each artist has their own preferences, but they all generally belong to one of the following categories.

Passing Thread

Passing thread is the most basic and common thread used in goldwork. It’s created by winding a thin strip of metal around a core of either cotton or silk. Passing thread used for goldwork is typically yellow, though in older examples this may in fact be orange: silver thread is usually white,though that can also be grey. The passing thread is typically attached by couching, either one or two threads at a time, and is pulled through to the back of the fabric to secure it. If the design of any particular piece calls for multiple threads to be laid next to each other, then a technique called ‘bricking’ is used. All that actually means is that the couching stitches are offset between the rows of thread and this gives an appearance similar to thatof brickwork when laid.

Jap Thread

Japan thread, sometimes known as Jap, is similar in many ways to passing thread, but is a cheaper alternative. A strip of foil paper is wrapped around the core, rather than a using a strip of metal. Because of its cheaper price, Jap thread is far more commonly used in modern goldwork.

Buillion or Purlthread

Buillion or Purl thread is constructed using a long thin spring that has a hollow core. Because of its flexibility, it can be stretched apart slightly and couched between the wraps of wire. It can also be cut into shorter lengths and applied like beads. Purl thread is available in both shiny and mat versions and also in colours.

Jaceron or Pearl purl

Jaceron or Pearl purl is similar to Buillion, but is constructed with a much wider piece of metal. When Jaceron thread is couched down between the wraps of metal, it can look very similar to a string of pearl-like beads. Lizerene thread is also very similar.

Bright Check

Bright Check or Freize is similar to the purls, except that the metal used in construction is differently shaped. When sewn on, the Bright Check produces a faceted, sparkly look.

Rococco thread

Rococco thread is made of wire wrapped tightly around a cotton core, and has a wavy or kinked appearance. Crinkle cardonnet or check thread is very similar.

Milliary wire

Milliary wire thread has a wire core which is wound round and wrapped with finer wire.

Plate thread

Plate thread is made of a strip of metal a few millimetres wide. It’s often used to fill small shapes, by folding it back and forth,hiding the couching stitches under the folds.

Flat worm or Ovalthread

Flat worm or Oval thread is a thin plate wrapped around a yarn core which has been flattened slightly. It’s similar in appearance to Plate thread and used for the same purpose, but it’s much easier to work with.

Twists or Torsade thread

Twists or Torsade thread is made of multiple strands of metal twisted together. Some variants, like Soutache, are constructed using a variety of different coloured metals and non-metal threads which have been twisted together. These are then either couched like Passing, with the couching thread visible, or with the thread angled with the twist to make the couching invisible.