Couching is a practical, versatile and easy stitch to use. It is used extensively in goldwork and metal thread embroidery, as well as many other forms of traditional embroidery. The technique is simple to use: thread or other materials are laid across the background fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different thread. These threads can either be the same colour as the laid threads, or a contrasting colour. Using couching threads which contrast with the laid threads allows patterns to be worked into the couching stitching.

We use a thread called Ultrafyne. We have used a number of threads in our time on the Goldwork and have found this to be a far superior thread. The thread is semi-translucent and therefore adapts to the background colour, which reduces the need for more colors.

It is almost invisible to see against the gold. It is used by the restorers and for such a fine thread is very strong. We tend to use it double, which means you are less likely to lose your needle, always wax your thread.

Basic couching techniques

The main couching stitch uses a thread and needle. The technique is simple to use.  A thicker thread is positioned or 'laid' on top of the fabric, and the thinner thread is stitched over it to hold it in place. When couching, it’s vital to keep the main thread taut as you stitch in order to maintain a firm line. The thicker thread is brought through to the front of the fabric, leaving a short end at the rear of the background fabric to be fastened off. This short end is then held fixed at the back of the fabric by tiny over-sewing stitches using the finer thread. The main thread is secured by taking it through the back of the fabric and fastening it in place by over-sewing with finer thread. Any excess can then be trimmed away.

Couching is often referred to as the 'drawing' stitch as it can be used as a line to 'draw' a design, and create a good framework for adding other textural effects. The finer thread used for over-sewing generally matches, or tones, with the colour of the main yarn that is to be stitched in place: this is especially the case if the couching is the 'drawing' of the embroidery and  will be combined with other effects. However, a more decorative effect can be created by using contrasting colours and threads.

The fine thread over-sewing stitches are usually evenly spaced over the laid thread, and stitched at right-angles to it. Closer stitches can be worked into the design if more intricate curves or sharp angles are needed. Lines of couching placed close together can create a very effective solid filling, almost like a block of colour. Smooth, thick threads or fabric strips can be eased through a fabric by first piercing the cloth with a mellor or the point of scissors or the most common techinue by using a large needle. Heavily textured yarns, cords or fabric strips can just be placed on top of the material and the ends eased through to the back in order to fasten on and off with the finer thread. Pulling the whole length of a textured yarn through the fabric could be difficult and would possibly damage the yarn or distort the background cloth.

Couching variants

• In couched filling, threads are laid on the surface in a trellis pattern and sewn to the fabric at the intersections.

• In laid work or Bayeux stitch, threads are laid side-by-side to fill a shape; this is then held in place with a thread at right angles to the laid threads. This crossing thread is then couched to the fabric to hold the laid threads in place.

• In Bokhara couching or Bokhara stitch, the couched threads are held in place with lots of tiny crossing stitches, which may be aligned from row to row to produce patterns.

• In Romanian stitch, long satin stitches are each held in place with a small diagonal stitch made in the center

• In Romanian couching, bundles of laid threads are held in place with Romanian stitches

• In Underside couching, a heavy couching thread (historically, a stout linen) is brought up from the wrong side of the work, looped over the laid thread, and returned to the wrong side. The couching thread is then given a sharp pull which draws a small loop of laid thread through to the wrong side of the fabric. Underside couching has the advantages that the couching thread is completely concealed from the front and is not subject to wear.