There are two basic traditions of embroidery in Ethiopia. The first is associated with the Amhara and the related peoples of the highlands which is steeped in Coptic tradition. The second is connected with the Muslim people of Harar, and is a sophisticated urban style influenced by Indian and Arabian embroidery in its use of patterns and materials. The one thing they both have in common is there extensive use of goldwork and metal thread embroidery.

The Amhara Kemis, or chemise, is a long open-necked shift with long full sleeves. The cut of the garment varies from region to region within Ethiopia, however they are all made with handwoven undyed cotton, and are heavily embroidered at the neck, cuffs and hem with beautiful goldwork. The Kemis are also embellished with cotton embroidery and studded at the necks with silver beads and metal threads. This particular style of dress belongs to a Christian tradition. The Kemis are traditionally worn on Sundays and covered with a shawl.

The Muslim style is completely different. The most beautiful examples of goldwork embroidery belong to the urban women of the ancient walled city of Harar. Marriage dresses are generally long and full and made from smocks of indigo-dyed light cotton sewn up along a central longitudinal seam to from a V-shaped neckline. A piece of imported stain or damask of contrasting colour is sewn on to cover the shoulders, neck, breast and upper back. All the edges of this applied fabric and the neck line are outlined with delicate and restrained floral goldwork embroidery couched with satin stitch which form identical patterns on the inside of the dress.