Turkish metal thread embroidery is unusual in that it offers a bridge between the Asian and European traditions. Although parts of Turkey have a Christian tradition, much of the country is predominantly Sunni Moslem, so there are consequently few embroidery techniques used that depict humans or animals. Turkey has exerted a strong influence on embroidery since the 16th century. Native representations of flowers, cones and the tree of life spread from Turkey to many other parts of the world where metal thread embroidery was practiced.

Turkish embroidery is generally worked with silk threads on a ground of cotton, linen, silk or velvet. Silk production was first established in Constantinople (Istanbul) in the 6th century. Today silk is still farmed in the Gallipoli peninsula and in north-western Anatolia. Cotton is grown in the West of Anatolia, in the Izmir area, and in the south near Adana, where flax is also grown. There is intensive sheep farming in Thrace, but wool is generally only used for embroidery for thick coats.

Goldwork embroidery was mainly used for men’s coats and court costumes worn by both sexes. These items were often lavishly decorated with Turkish goldwork. The majority of metal thread embroidery in Thrace was worked by men. It consists of gold, silver-gilt or silver thread in flat strip, round coil or purl bullion form, laid on a ground of velvet, silk or occasionally soft leather. The thread is held to the ground fabric in a variety of ways. It is sometimes laid in simple zigzag form and couched with small silk retaining stitches at each junction, or it may be laid in longer zigzags with extra intermediary retaining stitches.

If padding is required, the metal thread is laid over a card template and couched at either side of that padding. Alternatively, large areas of goldwork may be executed with parallel lines of metal thread. These are laid either directly onto the ground fabric, or over an under-layer of a padding of laid cords, and are couched, singly or in pairs in basket-weave formation.     

The designs often include cones and other scrolled motifs, such as stylised peacocks which are sometimes connected by repeating coils. Turkish goldwork, although no longer as popular as it once was, is still seen in areas of the former Turkish Empire. Many of the original motifs used have now been transposed to other embroidery techniques.